Overboosting once doesn't affect the longevity of the unit. The wastegate on the Can-Am X3 is an integral part of the turbo system and ECU tuning. In any journal bearing turbo, the journal bearings are simply a wear buffer between the turbine shaft and the center housing, much like rod and main bearings are a wear buffer in an engine. The other one we have is an EVO III 16g. I mean shouldn't there be some tension when putting the wastegate on the arm? If the ebay one dies, will just swap them out.Just an idea but if the wastgate loop fits over the arm with slack wouldn't that allow exhaust to slip past the door just a little bit?

I'm doing the ebay turbo install and trying to test the theory that if properly installed and checked the ebay turbos can be as reliable as MHI's. Or you Could use a 30 psi wg without a boost controller.NOTE: Wastegate Adjustment Should Not be Treated like a Boost Controller, Excess tension will Cause the Turbine Housing To Crack Sooner. Well, if your aim is to destroy your turbo and/or blow up your engine, … What keeps the turbo from making an infinite amount of boost pressure is the wastegate spring. Pour mesurer cette pression de suralimentation, effectuer un test sur route avec un manomètre de précision branché à l'aide d'un T sur le tuyau reliant la coquille de compresseur et la wastegate. Just enough to keep the door closed when idling?Just an idea but if the wastgate loop fits over the arm with slack wouldn't that allow exhaust to slip past the door just a little bit? Une wastegate défectueuse peut être la cause d'une pression de suralimentation excessive. This could be as simple as compressor surge caused by too stiff of a Blow Off Valve spring or as complicated as an unbalanced compressor or turbine assembly.

Overboosting once doesn't affect the longevity of the unit. If you want to run 30psi, you should use a 15 psi WG with a boost Controller. a wastegate from a Mitsubishi 15g turbo from a mid 90s Volvo 850 turbo being tested by a Kent-Moore wastegate tester. You can inspect these units all you want prior to running them, but predicting if/when they'll bomb out is nearly impossible.Actually we got the ebay one second hand for $100 with the install kit. You don’t need a wastegate. At This Point you need a Wastegate with a Higher PSI Spring Pressure. Just enough to keep the door closed when idling?...BUT the journal bearings should never see wear unless something's causing them to. The Reason This is Happening, is because the Wastegate Flapper hole and or passage after WG Hole will not Flow Well Enough To Control The Boost Level, This Can Be Fix By Porting. If the wastegate doesn't move initially, you'll overboost once and know there's an issue. A wastegate is usually controlled by a pressure actuator that is connected to manifold pressure. NOTE: If You see Boost Spike Above Target Boost, The Way to fix this is to use a Boost Source as Close to the TurboCharger as Possible, With as Short of a Vacuum Line as Possible, The Spike is simply Cause By a Delay in getting the pressure of the Turbo to the Wastegate Actuator. But if too Much Porting is Applied, Then You Could have an issue with not being able to run high boost, Because The Exhaust Pressure Gains so Much Ground On the WG flapper, that The Exhaust Pressure will force open the WG Spring Before the Pressure To the WG Nipple is Applied. I mean shouldn't there be some tension when putting the wastegate on the arm?

DSM 14b 16g Turbo Internal Wastegate Actuator Simple Ways How to Test for a Bad Wastegate Actuator: Stretch the Wastegate Actuator Rod Open with Your Hand, While the Wastegate Actuator is In this Position (Open position) Then Put your thumb Over the Nipple to not Allow air to Leave the Wastegate Actuator. The wastegate is normally closed, held shut by a spring inside the actuator canister.

If everything is in perfect operating condition, the bearings should never see wear. A wastegate is essentially a device that bypasses some exhaust flow around the turbine section of a turbocharger to control maximum boost. You can inspect these units all you want prior to running them, but predicting if/when they'll bomb out is nearly impossible.If the wastegate doesn't move initially, you'll overboost once and know there's an issue. TNOTE: If You see the You Reach Your Target Boost, Then See that your Boost Creeps from Your Target Boost Level When the Engine is Turning Higher RPM 4500 or Above, this is not a sign of a Bad Wastegate Actuator. Simple Ways How to Test for a Bad Wastegate Actuator:If the WG is Tightly close but diaphram blown air Past or doesnt hold vacuum, this causes Full Boost Condition.If Doesnt Open Full Boost Condition can be the ResultCauses full Boost Condition Because the Boost Pressure is not able to open the Wastegate Relief ValveNOTE: Usually a Bad Wastegate Actuator Means Little or No Boost or Full Boost Conditions.